REQUIREMENTS:

YARN: 10-ounces of 4-ply Knitting Worsted
1-ounce of contrasting color for embroider

CROCHET HOOK: #6 Bone Afghan Hook

GAUGE: 5 sts to an inch.

BACK: Using the #6 hook, make a chain of 57 sts. Foundation row: Pick up 1 loop in each chain, leaving the loops on hook, (57 loops). ROW 1: Yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop, * yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * across row. ROW 2: Pick up 1 loop in each upright stitch, leaving the loops on the hook, across row. Repeat these 2 rows for the pattern. Work until the piece measures 10 inches, or as long as you want up to the underarm, ending with row 1. UNDERARM SHAPING: Slip st over 3 sts; pick up loops across row to within last 3 sts; work back taking off the loops. Decrease 1 st at each side of the work as follows: At the start of the row, draw yarn through the 2nd and 3rd upright sts at the same time as one stitch and do the same with the 2nd and 3rd sts at the end of row. Work back. Repeat decrease at each side, twice more. Then work even until the armhole measures 5 inches above the underarm. Slip st across row to bind off.

LEFT FRONT: Make a chain of 29 sts and work as on the back up to the underarm, ending with row 1. UNDERARM SHAPING: Slip st over 3 sts; finish row. Work back. Decrease 1 stitch at the underarm edge 3 times, (in same manner as on back). Work even until the armhole measures 3 ½ inches above the underarm. NECK SHAPING: Leave off 8 sts at the neck edge. Work remainder of the sts until the armhole measures the same as the back. Slip st across row. Break yarn.

RIGHT FRONT: Work to correspond to the left, having the decreases at the opposite sides.

LONG SLEEVES: Using the #6 hook, make a chain of 37 sts and work in the pattern until the work measures 3 inches. Increase 1 stitch at each side of the work on the next row. (To increase – draw up a loop through the top strand between the upright sts). Repeat increase every inch 3 times more, (45 sts). Now work even until the sleeve measures 10 ½ inches in all, or as long as you want up to the underarm. UNDERARM AND CAP SHAPING: Slip st over 3 sts; work across row, leaving 3 sts off sts the end. Decrease 1 stitch at each side of the work every other Row 1, once. Decrease 1 stitch at each side of the work every Row 1, 4 times. Slip st across row. Make the other sleeve the same way.

FINISHING: Sew shoulders, side seams and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves into the armhole, matching the underarm seams. FRONT BAND: (Right One). Tie yarn at the bottom of the right front, with the right side of the work facing. Make 1 s c in each row up to the neck edge. Chain 1 turn. Make 2 rows more of s c. Buttonhole Row: Make 1 s c in first 2 sts; * chain 3 sts; skip 2 sts; make 1 s c in next 7 sts; repeat from * down the front. Make 2 rows more of s c going into every stitch, placing 2 sts over the chain 3 space. Left Front: Work to correspond to the right one, leaving out the buttonhole row. Make 1 row of s c around the neck, bottom edge of sweater and sleeve cuffs.

This free pattern originally published by Doreen Knitting, Volume 97.

REQUIREMENTS:

YARN: 8-ounces of Grey 4-ply Knitting Worsted (Main Color)
4-ounces of Red 4-ply Knitting Worsted

CROCHET HOOK: #6 Bone Afghan Hook

GAUGE: 5 sts to an inch.

PATTERN: Row 1: Pick up 1 loop in each upright stitch, leaving loops on hook, across row. Row 2: Yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop, * yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * across row. Repeat rows 1 and 2, three times more. Row 9: (Tie in red yarn). Chain 2, pick up 1 loop in 2nd chain from hook and in first, 2nd and 3rd upright afghan sts, (5 loops on hook); yarn over hook and pull through all loops; chain 1, (this forms eye of star stitch); * pick up 1 loop in eye of star st, pick up 1 loop on side of star stitch, pick up 1 loop in each of the next 2 upright afghan sts, (5 loops on hook); yarn over and pull through all loops; chain 1; repeat from * across row. Ch 2, turn. ROW 10: Make 1 h d c in eye of first star stitch, make 2 h d c in each eye of star st across row; 1 h d c in top of turning ch. Note: Carry the colors along the edge.

BACK: Using the #6 hook and the grey yarn, make a chain of 57 sts. Foundation row: Pick 1 loop in each chain, leaving the loops on hook, (57 loops). Next row: Yarn over and pull through 1 loop, * yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * across row. Now start the pattern as above and work until the piece measures 10 ½ inches in all, or as long as you wish up to the underarm, ending with row 10. UNDERARM SHAPING: Slip st over 3 sts; pick up loops across row to within last 3 sts; work back taking loops off. Decrease 1 st at each side of the work as follows: At the start of the row, draw yarn through the 2nd and 3rd upright sts at the same time as one st and do the same with the 2nd and 3rd sts at the end of row. Work back. Repeat decrease at each side, twice more. Then work even until the armhole measures 5 inches above the underarm. Slip st across row to bind off.

LEFT FRONT: Using the grey yarn, make a chain of 29 sts and work in the pattern as on the back up to the underarm, ending with row 10. UNDERARM SHAPING: Slip st over 3 sts; finish row. Work back. Decrease 1 stitch at the underarm edge 3 times, (in same manner as on back). Work even until the armhole measures 4 inches above the underarm. NECK SHAPING: Leave off 8 sts at the neck edge. Work remainder of sts until the armhole measures the same as the back. Slip st across row. Break yarn.

RIGHT FRONT: Work to correspond to the left, having decreases at opposite sides.

LONG SLEEVES: Using the grey yarn, make a chain of 37 sts. Work in the pattern until 2 grey and 2 red panels are completed. On the 3rd grey panel increase 1 stitch at each side of the 3rd and 7th rows. (To increase – draw up a loop through the top strand between the upright sts). Repeat increase again on the 5th grey panel. Now work even until the sleeve measures 11 inches, or as long as you need up to the underarm, ending with row 10, (22 stars). UNDERARM SHAPING: Slip st over 2 sts; work across row, leaving 2 sts off at the end. Now make a decrease at each side of the work on the 3rd and 7th rows. Make a red panel. Decrease again on the grey panel as before. Make the 2nd red panel. Decrease 1 st at each side of the work on the 1st, 3rd, and 7th row. Complete row 8. Slip st across row. Break yarn. Make the 2nd sleeve the same way.

FINISHING: Sew the shoulder and side seams, sleeve seams. Sew sleeves into the armhole matching the panels. Left Front Band: Using the grey yarn, tie yarn in at the neck edge. Make 1 s c in each row of grey, 2 s c on each red panel, continue down the front. Next row: Chain 1, turn; make 1 s c in each stitch up the front. Make 3 more rows of s c. Break yarn. Right Front Band: Tie yarn at the bottom of the right front, with the right side of the work facing you. Make 3 rows of s c. Buttonhole row: Chain 1, turn; make 1 s c in the next 2 sts; * chain 3 sts; skip 2 sts; 1 s c in next 8 sts: repeat from * down the front. Then make 2 more rows of s c, placing 2 sts over the chain 3. Break yarn. Around the neck, make 2 rows of s c, shaping to fit. Make 1 row of s c around the bottom of sweater and the cuffs of sleeves.

This free pattern originally published by Doreen Knitting, Volume 97.

Size 4 and 6 Years

Instructions are written for size 4 years, changes for size 6 years are in parentheses.

Materials—Fleisher’s Wonderized Babyfair, 6 balls; or Fleisher’s Wonderized De Luxe Sock and Sport Yarn, 6 skeins.

Few yards Contrasting Color for Edging.

White Crochet Hook, Size 2.

Gauge: 3 patterns—6 sts = 1 inch; 11 rows = 2 inches

Measurements—Chest 25 (27) ins. Length from lower edge to underarm 9 (10) ins. Sleeves—Width 9 (10) ins.

Back—Ch 72 (78) sts loosely.

First pattern row—right side—1 sc and 1 dc in 2nd st from hook, * skip 1 st, 1 sc and 1 dc in next st; repeat from * to end; 36 (39) pats.

2nd row—Ch 1, turn, * skip dc, 1 sc and 1 dc in sc; repeat fro * to end. Repeat 2nd row for pattern. Work even until 50 (56) rows; about 9 (10) ins. from beginning.

Armholes—Slip st over first 3 pats.—6 sts—for right underarm, work pat. to within 3 pats. of end, 1 slip st in next dc. Ch 1, turn, work 1 row even; 30 (33) pats.

First dec. row—Ch 1, turn, skip dc, 1 sc in sc, skip next dc, 1 sc and 1 dc in next sc, continue pat. to within 1 full pat. of end, 1 sc in last sc—1/2 pat. decreased each end.

2nd dec. row—Ch 1, turn, draw up a loop in first sc, skip dc, draw up loop in 2nd sc, yo and through 3 loops, 1 dc in same st as last loop, work pat. to within 1 full pat. of end, 1 sc in next sc, yo, draw up a loop in same st as last sc was worked in, draw up a loop in last sc on row, yo and through 2 loops, yo and through 3 loops—1/2 pat. decreased each end. Repeat last 2 dec. rows once; 26 (29) pats. Work even until 4 ½ (5) ins. above underarm.

Shoulder Shaping—Ch 1, turn, slip st over first 2 pats.—4 sts, work pat. to within 2 pats. of end, 1 slip st in next dc. Repeat last row 3 (4) times (on size 4 only, slip st over 1 pat. and work to within 1 pat. of end); 9 (10) pats. for each shoulder; 8 (9) pats. for back of neck; fasten off.

Left Front—Pocket Lining—Ch 20 sts loosely, work as for back on 10 sts. For 14 rows—2 ½ ins. Fasten off.Ch 42 (44) sts loosely, work on 21 (22) pats. as for back for 18 rows.

Next row—right side—Work 6 pats. then work 10 pats. of pocket lining, skip 10 pats of front, work next 5 (6) pats. to front edge; 21 (22) pats. Work even until same length as back to underarm. Keeping front edge even shape armhole as for right armhole of back; 16 (17) pats. Work even until 18 (22) rows above underarm, about 3 ½ (4) ins., end at armhole edge.

Next row—Work to within 4 pats. of front edge, slip st in next dc, turn. Dec. ½ pat. at front edge as for right side of armhole on back on each of next 6 rows, at the same times, shape shoulder as for one shoulder of back, when 4 ½ (5) ins. above underarm.

Right Front—Make pocket lining. Work right front as for left front for 6 (4) rows.

Buttonhole—right side—work 1 pat., ch 2, skip 1 pat. finish row. On next row, work 1 pat. on the ch 2 to finish buttonhole. Continue to correspond to left front, shaping armhole at opposite edge, at the same times repeating buttonhole every 9th and 10th (11th and 12th) row 6 times, end at front edge.

Next row—Slip st over first 4 pats. for front of neck, work pat. to end of row. Finish right front to correspond to left front, shaping neck and shoulder at opposite ends.

Sleeves—Ch 34 (40); 17 (20) pats. Work 8 rows even as for back.

First inc. row—Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first dc—1/2 pat. increased, 1 sc and 1 dc in next sc, continue to within 1 pat. of end, 1 sc and 1 dc in next dc, 1 sc in last sc.

2nd inc. row—Ch 1, turn, 1 sc and 1 dc in first sc, work pat., end 1 sc and 1 dc in last sc; 19 (22) pats. Repeat the last 10 rows 4 times; 27 (30) pats. Work even until 10 (11) ins. from beginning, or desired length. Dec. ½ pat. each side, on each of next 18 (20) rows; 9 (10) pats. for top of sleeve. Fasten off.

Finishing—Sew seams. Sew in sleeves with seam at center underarm. Sew pocket lining to wrong side. Finish buttonholes.

Edging—Join main color at lower edge of right front, work * 1 sc on edge, ch 1; repeat from * to neck edge, spacing sts to keep and even edge, continue around neck and down left front to lower edge, end with sc. Fasten off.

2nd row—With contrasting color and working from same side as last row, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc under ch 1, * ch 1, 1 sc under next ch 1; repeat from * to corner, ch 1, 1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc all under ch 1 at corner, continue around neck and down left front increasing at other corner, end 1 sc under last ch 1, 1 sc in last sc. Fasten off. Work same edging on top of pockets and lower edge of sleeves. Steam.

These instructions may be used for either of the 3 sizes. Check yarn and hook for size you wish to make.

Materials—Infants—Fleisher’s Wonderized Babyfair, 1 ball; or Fleisher’s Baby Zephyr, 3-fold, 1 ball; or Fleisher’s Wonderized De Luxe Sock and Sport Yarn, 1 skein.

Contrasting Color for Trimming.

White Crochet Hook, Size 3.

Gauge: 13 sc = 2 inches; 7 rows = 1 inch

Size 1 Year—Fleisher’s Casa-Laine Sport Yarn, 1 ball; of Fleisher’s Sweater and Stocking Yarn, 1 skein. Contrasting Color for trim.

White Crochet Hook, Size 4.

Gauge: 11 sc = 2 inches; 6 rows = 1 inch

Size 2 to 3 Years—Fleisher’s Superior Knitting Worsted, ½ skein. Contrasting Color for trim.

White Crochet Hook, Size 5.

Gauge: 9 sc = 2 inches; 5 rows = 1 inch

Left Mitten—Palm and Thumb—Ch 24.

First row (wrong side)—1 sc in 2nd st from hook and in each st to end (23 sc).

2nd row—Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st (inc. for top edge), 1 sc in each st to end.

3rd row—Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st. Repeat last 2 rows once.

6th row—Ch 1, turn, draw up a loop in each of the first 2 sts, yo and through 3 loops (dec.), 1 sc in each of the next 12 sc, ch 9 for thumb, work 8 sc on ch, work 11 sc to end of row.

7th row—Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each of first 19 sts, work 8 sc on other side of thumb ch, finish row (40 sc).

8th row—Dec. 1 st, 1 sc in each st to end (39 sc). Work 1 row even.

Final row (right side)—Ch 1, turn, 1 c in each of first 20 sts (12 for side of palm, 8 for thumb); fold thumb piece double, 1 slip st inserting hook through next st and last st worked; continuing to work through both edges of thumb, work 7 sc for thumb, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, 3 sc in next st, 1 sc in end st of each row on side (wrist), 3 sc in first st of foundation ch, 1 sc in each st on foundation ch, 1 sc in end st of each row on shaped side. Join in first st of final row. Fasten off.

Back of Mitten—Work same as palm for 5 rows.

6th row—Dec. 1 st at beginning of row, work to end. Work 1 row even. Repeat last 2 rows once. Ch 1, turn, work 1 row around outside edge as on palm. Fasten off.

Right Mitten—Palm and Thumb—Begin as for left mitten, increasing at end of 2nd and 4th row. Work 1 row even.

6th row—Ch 1, turn, 11 sc, ch 9 for thumb, 8 sc on ch, 12 sc, dec. 1 st.

7th row—Ch 1, turn, 21 sc, 8 sc on other side of thumb ch, 11 sc. Finish to correspond to left mitten. Make back of right mitten same as left mitten.

Finishing—Hold front and back of mitten with wrong sides together. With contrasting color, beginning at wrist and working from right side of back, work 1 row sc around outside edge to other end of wrist, working through both thicknesses (1 sc in each st), continue sc around wrist, working 1 sc in each sc. Join; fasten off. Steam. Cut a strand of contrasting color, 72 ins. long. Fold in half and twist. Fold again in half. Tie a knot in each end. Allow cord to twist.

Pom-poms—Wind contrasting color 80 times around a pencil. Tie one end, trim to size. Make 6. Sew to back as illustrated.